Is the Brand Hierarchy Being Rewritten? Labubu, Birkin, and the Rise of Disruptive Brand Symbolism

Everybody has been talking about Labubu and Pop Mart recently, as the sharp-toothed, whimsical figurine has dominated fashion trends worldwide. One of the most striking scenes is this cutesy toy becoming a bag charm, an unmissable accessory, for the most iconic and coveted handbag: the Birkin. Worn by globally recognized celebrities, this pairing has sparked fascination across press outlets, with many analyses approaching it from cultural and societal angles.

What intrigued me most, however, is what this phenomenon implies from a brand perspective. How does this creatively spontaneous consumer-driven match between Labubu (a mass-market product) and the Birkin (a luxury icon) shed light on the future of brand building?

 Here are a few thoughts that I hope can provoke deeper analysis:

1. The Rise of Disruptive Brand Democratization

 We know brand hierarchy often mirrors social hierarchy as brands are typically categorized as mass, premium, prestige, or luxury, reflecting social class distinctions. The Birkin sits at the apex of this model. It represents exclusivity, status, and cultural capital. Labubu, on the other hand, is a collectible toy with a starting price around 100 RMB (USD 14), designed to appeal to a broad base of young consumers. It isn’t expected to enter the luxury category.

Yet this fashion moment flips the expected narrative. Labubu, functioning as a mere bag charm, unexpectedly steals the spotlight from the Birkin. Traditionally, an accessory is meant to complement and elevate the primary object, but here, the charm becomes the center of attention, and the luxury bag fades into the background. Fashion analysts have described this as “chaotic maximalist style.” I’d call it disruptive brand democratization, which reflects a deeper shift in symbolic power.

It demonstrates that brands rooted in popular culture—brands from the “obscure background”—can ascend the symbolic brand ladder, not through exclusivity, but through cultural relevance and emotional resonance. They can cultivate cult followings and become cultural icons in their own right, capable of upending the perceived “royalty” of legacy luxury.

2. When Timelessness Meets the Allure of the Fleeting

Luxury brands have long been positioned as timeless and investment-worthy. The Birkin symbolizes heritage and permanence. In contrast, Labubu represents a fleeting trend—an expression of the present moment. Their pairing throws this contrast into sharp relief.

Labubu’s popularity as a Birkin charm seems to overshadow the bag’s enduring allure. As Vogue noted, people crave distraction, joy, and a return to the comfort of a pseudo-simpler past, especially in difficult times. This raises a critical question: Will this consumer mindset last? Are we entering an era where ephemeral pleasure consistently outranks long-term aspiration?

Human instinct, despite millennia of evolution, often favors immediate gratification. This dynamic is reflected in branding: audiences increasingly desire brands that entertain, comfort, and feel emotionally accessible. Building something fun or dreamlike, something that resonates now, has become just as important as building something timeless.

 Labubu on a Birkin isn’t just a quirky trend. It’s a signal. The brand codes are being rewritten. The hierarchy is no longer top-down, but side-in, meme-powered, and emotionally driven. Perhaps, in time, some trend-sensitive brands will evolve into cultural icons, shifting from ephemeral to eternal. That possibility may represent the future challenge (and opportunity) for modern brand building.